Croquembouche

Alright, today is another “we watched a cooking show and now we need to make the dessert” recipe.  Spud had another request after hearing about choux pastry.  

I’ve actually made choux pastry once before when I made eclairs, but that has been a few years, and when I made those, Spud wasn’t really watching cooking shows with me yet.

In the US choux pastry is more commonly known as puff pastry, but I like choux better!  I contemplated just making the puff pastries/choux buns, but decided to go big or go home and make a croquembouche which is basically filled choux buns stacked with spun sugar.  

I made a mini croquembouche since it was just for my family and I’m glad I did.  First, some croquembouche can be huge and these are best enjoyed within a few hours of filling and stacking.  And second, really the biggest reason, was that I scorched my fingers in the molten sugar and could hardly bear to finish after burning the thumb and pointer on both hands.

I had seen a suggestion to wear gloves while dipping, but I didn’t have any thick enough food grade gloves at home so I decided to throw caution to the wind (perhaps I shouldn’t have!)

Luckily, these were absolutely delicious and worth all the trouble and burnt fingers!

Croquembouche

Adapted from Serious Eats

Choux Pastry (Pâte à Choux)

¼ cup 2 % milk

¼ cup water

3 tablespoon butter, but in small cubes

1 teaspoon sugar

¼ teaspoon kosher salt

½ cup flour

2 eggs

Powdered sugar

Créme Diplomat

¼ cup granulated sugar

1 ½ tablespoon cornstarch

⅛ teaspoon kosher salt

Pinch ground cinnamon

2 eggs yolks

1 cup whole milk (or 1 tablespoon heavy whipping cream + 2% milk to make a cup)

2 ounces dark chocolate (70%), chopped

1 tablespoon butter, cut in small cubes

½ teaspoon vanilla extract

⅜ cup heavy whipping cream

½ teaspoon unflavored gelatin + 1 teaspoons water

Spun Sugar/Caramel

1 ½ cups sugar, divided

6 tablespoons water, divided

To make the choux, place the water, milk, butter, sugar, and salt in a medium saucepan over high heat and bring to a boil.

Once the butter is melted, remove from heat and stir in the flour until fully incorporated.  Return to medium heat and cook until the dough reads 175 degrees on a thermometer.

Remove from heat and cool to 145 degrees. Stir in the eggs one at a time, until a smooth shiny paste forms.

Load the dough into a piping bag and use immediately or rest up to 2 hours.

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F.  Draw 1 ¼-inch circles (1-inch apart) on parchment paper.  Pipe the choux dough onto the parchment, filling each circle (I got about 20 choux buns).  Lightly wet a finger and tap down any peaks on the choux.  Lightly dust with powdered sugar.

Bake in the preheated oven for 15 minutes.  Turn the pan and bake for another 5 minutes or until browned and hollow sounding.

Immediately remove from the oven and poke a small hole in the bottoms to let steam escape.  Return to the turn off but still hot oven (propped open) to cool and dry out.

Meanwhile start the creme diplomat. 

Make an ice bath in a large bowl - place water and ice about halfway up the bowl. Set aside. 

Place the sugar, cornstarch, salt, and cinnamon in a medium saucepan and stir to mix.  

Whisk in the eggs until fully incorporated.  Then whisk in the milk until combined.

Place the saucepan over medium heat and cook, whisking constantly until the mixture thickens.  Once bubbling, cook (while whisking) for an additional minute, then remove from heat and continue whisking for a minute more.

Off heat, stir in the chocolate, butter, and vanilla.  Whisk until the chocolate and butter are melted and everything is combined.

Strain the pastry cream through a fine mesh strainer into a heat proof bowl.  Place a piece of plastic wrap directly on top of the pastry cream to prevent a skin from forming and place the bowl Into the ice bath for 30 minutes or until the pastry cream is cool.  Move to the refrigerator and chill for 2 hours.

After 2 hours, remove from the refrigerator and stir until smooth.  

Place the 2 teaspoons of water in a small bowl and sprinkle with gelatin.  Set aside until absorbed.  Microwave for 5-10 seconds until the gelatin is dissolved and liquid.  Set aside to cool slightly.

Place the heavy whipping cream in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment.  Whisk on high until soft peaks form.

While the mixer is still running, add the gelatin and mix until stiff peaks form.

With a spatula, gently mix ¼ of the stabilized cream into the chocolate pastry cream.  Add the remaining stabilized whipped cream and gently fold until fully incorporated.

Load the creme diplomat into a piping bag fitted with a small round tip (a 12 works well).  Push the tip into the slit created earlier and fill the cavity of each cream puff with filling.  Refrigerate while spun sugar is made.

Place ¾ cup sugar and 3 tablespoons of water into a small saucepan over medium heat.  Cook while stirring until the mixture begins to bubble.

Once bubbling cook, swirling the pan occasionally, until the sugar is a light golden color.  Continue cooking undisturbed for another minute or until the sugar reaches an amber shade.  Pour the sugar into a heatproof bowl.

Dip the cream puffs into the melted sugar (watch your fingers!) and build the croquembouche.  If the sugar runs out or seizes, repeat with the remaining sugar and water.  Once the croquembouche is built, drizzle the remaining sugar around the outside of the croquembouche.  Serve immediately or within 2 hours of making.

Serves 6-8